No radio, No power locks, No power window anymore
Question:
According to Twano, there is no GEM is in these old Explorers (mine is a 93 and he has a 94). If anybody can confirm this … I’ll try to remove the radio to see what is behind it. The "pop" noise came from there just before the radio and other accessories went wrong. VL
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Vincent, > I discovered via a Haynes manual wiring diagram that my 96 Explorer > has a device called a Generic Control Module(GEN). This module > controls a lot of the interior features such as the interior lighting, > door locks, power windows, windshield wipers, window defrosters and > can shut shut of the lights interior and exterior if accidently left > on. I’ve heard this device called a Central Timing Module. Any way > I’m sending you some mail, I recieved about this module, it may or > may not be the source of your problem. I was having and still have > a thermal problem which I believe is linked to this computer module. > See the following correspondence: > Del Harris > Del > The problems I have experienced with the Central Timing Module were also > thermal, but they were the reverse (acted up when the interior got > warm). > There seems to be no reason that it couldnt act up during the cool-down > stage like you are experiencing. > My main experience with the module was on a 95 Ranger, which is likely > an > identical layout to your Explorer. The module in the Ranger was indeed > directly to the left of the radio. If the radio has the 4 holes which > accept a special removal tool, you can just use 4 finishing nails, or > possibly a cut section of coat hanger, then pry outwards as you slide > the > radio out. > The module is about 1" x 3" x 6", and is black and contains a circuit > board. One you have the radio out and see the front face of the box, > "Central Timing Module" is embossed in the plastic. Mounted on the > circuit > board is the chime device. The owner of the Ranger had already ripped > out > the dome light from the roof, so all that was left was the chime. I > opened > the box to expose the circuit board and chime. Heres where I discovered > the cheapest construction Id ever seen on a soldered circuit board. I > expected to have to fire up the soldering iron to carefully heat the > joints > so that I could lift the chime off. Well I didnt even need the > soldering > iron to lift the chime off. The soldering was that poor in quality. So > I > can imagine how the rest of the board was, and why these things keep > acting > up in Ford products. It seems that the extremely poor solder joints > lose > their connections during the slight expansion and contraction of the > board > during temperature changes. > Here is what I know of that the module controls: Dome light, chime, > wipers, washer, rear defrost. Im sure there are other features > controlled > by the module. Someone I talked with who owned a Windstar was having > problems with nearly amenity in the van quitting, and the dealer did not > know what it was. I told them to check the module. They tapped on the > box > and everything started working, so that was an easy confirmation. But I > have no idea what one costs. > Well I wish you luck. It looks like youre headed in the right > direction. > Troy > Dome light Problem > On my 96 Explorer I am experiencing the dome light being >stuck on with no door ajar indicator. I still attempted to clean >the door latch hardware at all locations of the vehicle, with no >resolve for dome light problem. The problem has always seemed >to occur randomly. Though after further investigation now appears >coincide to thermal conditions. It would typically only after the >car is driven and the interior is warmed up. During the winter >it seemed more intermittant and now in the spring depending on >the warmth of the outside ambient temperature. The dome light >problem can occur immediately as soon as you open a door till >night when the temperatures cool down. > Since the problem started I have been reviewing the >vehicles electrical wiring using both a Chilton and a Haynes >Manual for the vehicle. The Chilton’s wiring diagrams are pretty >worthless and inaccurate as are a few other OBD 2 codes on the >vehicle. The Haynes manual however is a bit more complete, but >still weak. In the Haynes it shows a device called a Generic >Electronic Module or GEM, which matches the Central Timing >Module you talk about. I was suspecting the so called GEM all >along based on the symptoms of no door ajar indicator would >occur during the problem. Yet the door ajar indicator would >function if a door was opened during the dome light problem. > I last night attempted to locate this Central Timing >Module under the dash of my explorer. I believe I have located >it directly left of the radio/HVAC control panel. I haven’t >removed the front bezel to the radio/HVAC control panel to >confirm. I can see the the device from the back and it is black >has a slotted cover, through which I can see the back of an >electronic circuit board. It’s dimensions appear to be about >3" x 3" x 1", however I’m not 100% sure if this really is the >Central Timing Module. I was hoping to locate better >documentation on the wiring and the location of this Central >Timing Module. > Do you have any idea where I can locate more information >on the Central Timing Module itself, and it’s location in my 96 >Explorer. Otherwise my remaining option if may be to attempt to >use freeze mist on the device I’ve located to confirm it as the >device when the problem is occurring. I would prefer to know I >have the correct device before I chill it. Let me know if you >have any further insites. > Del Harris > But everything else still OK: all the lights (but not inside the vehicle), > the external temp and compass > I’ve checked the fuses and they are ok. Where should I check next? It’s a 93 > Limited. > I’m in the process to change the driver power window motor (right now the > door is empty, I’ve removed everything that is related to the window). I > don’t believe it is related. > Thanks for any help. > VL
Response:
> Not to be a dork,
Too late 
> Vince…… how does it feel realizing all you needed was > to look in the manual that came with your car?
Well …. for the symptoms I’ve described, the doc recommends to check a 60A fuse under the hood. I did so … – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> — > Jim Warman > I’VE FIXED IT!!! > And shame on me, this was just a 15A fuse. I did not know that there were > an > inside fuse box close to the parking break pedal. When I found it, > yesterday > night, I’ve checked the fuses on by one, and one of the 15 A was burned. > Everything is back in order now. > Thanks for the help everybody. And I hope that Twano will find out what’s > wrong with his Explorer. > Vincent > > Got the same problem on my ‘94 Limited. My driver window motor is kaput > > also, but that went before the other stuff went out. Wife said she heard > a > > "pop" from behind the dash about in the center of the car just before > the > > radio and stuff went. All fuses are good, headlights flash when the lock > > button is hit, no door locks, no interior lights,no hood light, > everything > > else works fine. > > Anyone have any ideas for us? > > TIA > > > But everything else still OK: all the lights (but not inside the > vehicle), > > > the external temp and compass > > > I’ve checked the fuses and they are ok. Where should I check next? > It’s > a > > 93 > > > Limited. > > > I’m in the process to change the driver power window motor (right now > the > > > door is empty, I’ve removed everything that is related to the window). > I > > > don’t believe it is related. > > > Thanks for any help. > > > VL
Response:
Not to be a dork, Vince…… how does it feel realizing all you needed was to look in the manual that came with your car? — Jim Warman
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’VE FIXED IT!!! > And shame on me, this was just a 15A fuse. I did not know that there were an > inside fuse box close to the parking break pedal. When I found it, yesterday > night, I’ve checked the fuses on by one, and one of the 15 A was burned. > Everything is back in order now. > Thanks for the help everybody. And I hope that Twano will find out what’s > wrong with his Explorer. > Vincent > Got the same problem on my ‘94 Limited. My driver window motor is kaput > also, but that went before the other stuff went out. Wife said she heard a > "pop" from behind the dash about in the center of the car just before the > radio and stuff went. All fuses are good, headlights flash when the lock > button is hit, no door locks, no interior lights,no hood light, everything > else works fine. > Anyone have any ideas for us? > TIA > > But everything else still OK: all the lights (but not inside the > vehicle), > > the external temp and compass > > I’ve checked the fuses and they are ok. Where should I check next? It’s > a > 93 > > Limited. > > I’m in the process to change the driver power window motor (right now > the > > door is empty, I’ve removed everything that is related to the window). I > > don’t believe it is related. > > Thanks for any help. > > VL
Response:
I’VE FIXED IT!!! And shame on me, this was just a 15A fuse. I did not know that there were an inside fuse box close to the parking break pedal. When I found it, yesterday night, I’ve checked the fuses on by one, and one of the 15 A was burned. Everything is back in order now. Thanks for the help everybody. And I hope that Twano will find out what’s wrong with his Explorer. Vincent
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Got the same problem on my ‘94 Limited. My driver window motor is kaput > also, but that went before the other stuff went out. Wife said she heard a > "pop" from behind the dash about in the center of the car just before the > radio and stuff went. All fuses are good, headlights flash when the lock > button is hit, no door locks, no interior lights,no hood light, everything > else works fine. > Anyone have any ideas for us? > TIA > But everything else still OK: all the lights (but not inside the vehicle), > the external temp and compass > I’ve checked the fuses and they are ok. Where should I check next? It’s a > 93 > Limited. > I’m in the process to change the driver power window motor (right now the > door is empty, I’ve removed everything that is related to the window). I > don’t believe it is related. > Thanks for any help. > VL
Response:
Vincent, I discovered via a Haynes manual wiring diagram that my 96 Explorer has a device called a Generic Control Module(GEN). This module controls a lot of the interior features such as the interior lighting, door locks, power windows, windshield wipers, window defrosters and can shut shut of the lights interior and exterior if accidently left on. I’ve heard this device called a Central Timing Module. Any way I’m sending you some mail, I recieved about this module, it may or may not be the source of your problem. I was having and still have a thermal problem which I believe is linked to this computer module. See the following correspondence: Del Harris Del The problems I have experienced with the Central Timing Module were also thermal, but they were the reverse (acted up when the interior got warm). There seems to be no reason that it couldnt act up during the cool-down stage like you are experiencing. My main experience with the module was on a 95 Ranger, which is likely an identical layout to your Explorer. The module in the Ranger was indeed directly to the left of the radio. If the radio has the 4 holes which accept a special removal tool, you can just use 4 finishing nails, or possibly a cut section of coat hanger, then pry outwards as you slide the radio out. The module is about 1" x 3" x 6", and is black and contains a circuit board. One you have the radio out and see the front face of the box, "Central Timing Module" is embossed in the plastic. Mounted on the circuit board is the chime device. The owner of the Ranger had already ripped out the dome light from the roof, so all that was left was the chime. I opened the box to expose the circuit board and chime. Heres where I discovered the cheapest construction Id ever seen on a soldered circuit board. I expected to have to fire up the soldering iron to carefully heat the joints so that I could lift the chime off. Well I didnt even need the soldering iron to lift the chime off. The soldering was that poor in quality. So I can imagine how the rest of the board was, and why these things keep acting up in Ford products. It seems that the extremely poor solder joints lose their connections during the slight expansion and contraction of the board during temperature changes. Here is what I know of that the module controls: Dome light, chime, wipers, washer, rear defrost. Im sure there are other features controlled by the module. Someone I talked with who owned a Windstar was having problems with nearly amenity in the van quitting, and the dealer did not know what it was. I told them to check the module. They tapped on the box and everything started working, so that was an easy confirmation. But I have no idea what one costs. Well I wish you luck. It looks like youre headed in the right direction. Troy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dome light Problem > On my 96 Explorer I am experiencing the dome light being >stuck on with no door ajar indicator. I still attempted to clean >the door latch hardware at all locations of the vehicle, with no >resolve for dome light problem. The problem has always seemed >to occur randomly. Though after further investigation now appears >coincide to thermal conditions. It would typically only after the >car is driven and the interior is warmed up. During the winter >it seemed more intermittant and now in the spring depending on >the warmth of the outside ambient temperature. The dome light >problem can occur immediately as soon as you open a door till >night when the temperatures cool down. > Since the problem started I have been reviewing the >vehicles electrical wiring using both a Chilton and a Haynes >Manual for the vehicle. The Chilton’s wiring diagrams are pretty >worthless and inaccurate as are a few other OBD 2 codes on the >vehicle. The Haynes manual however is a bit more complete, but >still weak. In the Haynes it shows a device called a Generic >Electronic Module or GEM, which matches the Central Timing >Module you talk about. I was suspecting the so called GEM all >along based on the symptoms of no door ajar indicator would >occur during the problem. Yet the door ajar indicator would >function if a door was opened during the dome light problem. > I last night attempted to locate this Central Timing >Module under the dash of my explorer. I believe I have located >it directly left of the radio/HVAC control panel. I haven’t >removed the front bezel to the radio/HVAC control panel to >confirm. I can see the the device from the back and it is black >has a slotted cover, through which I can see the back of an >electronic circuit board. It’s dimensions appear to be about >3" x 3" x 1", however I’m not 100% sure if this really is the >Central Timing Module. I was hoping to locate better >documentation on the wiring and the location of this Central >Timing Module. > Do you have any idea where I can locate more information >on the Central Timing Module itself, and it’s location in my 96 >Explorer. Otherwise my remaining option if may be to attempt to >use freeze mist on the device I’ve located to confirm it as the >device when the problem is occurring. I would prefer to know I >have the correct device before I chill it. Let me know if you >have any further insites. > Del Harris > But everything else still OK: all the lights (but not inside the vehicle), > the external temp and compass > I’ve checked the fuses and they are ok. Where should I check next? It’s a 93 > Limited. > I’m in the process to change the driver power window motor (right now the > door is empty, I’ve removed everything that is related to the window). I > don’t believe it is related. > Thanks for any help. > VL
Response:
But everything else still OK: all the lights (but not inside the vehicle), the external temp and compass I’ve checked the fuses and they are ok. Where should I check next? It’s a 93 Limited. I’m in the process to change the driver power window motor (right now the door is empty, I’ve removed everything that is related to the window). I don’t believe it is related. Thanks for any help. VL
Response:
Got the same problem on my ‘94 Limited. My driver window motor is kaput also, but that went before the other stuff went out. Wife said she heard a "pop" from behind the dash about in the center of the car just before the radio and stuff went. All fuses are good, headlights flash when the lock button is hit, no door locks, no interior lights,no hood light, everything else works fine. Anyone have any ideas for us? TIA
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> But everything else still OK: all the lights (but not inside the vehicle), > the external temp and compass > I’ve checked the fuses and they are ok. Where should I check next? It’s a 93 > Limited. > I’m in the process to change the driver power window motor (right now the > door is empty, I’ve removed everything that is related to the window). I > don’t believe it is related. > Thanks for any help. > VL
Response:
Same noise from behind the dashboard on mine. I’ve just tried the lock button on the passenger side (I’ve removed the one on the driver side last week-end to get to the window’s motor), and I have the same " headlights flash " side effect. Vincent L
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Got the same problem on my ‘94 Limited. My driver window motor is kaput > also, but that went before the other stuff went out. Wife said she heard a > "pop" from behind the dash about in the center of the car just before the > radio and stuff went. All fuses are good, headlights flash when the lock > button is hit, no door locks, no interior lights,no hood light, everything > else works fine. > Anyone have any ideas for us? > TIA > But everything else still OK: all the lights (but not inside the vehicle), > the external temp and compass > I’ve checked the fuses and they are ok. Where should I check next? It’s a > 93 > Limited. > I’m in the process to change the driver power window motor (right now the > door is empty, I’ve removed everything that is related to the window). I > don’t believe it is related. > Thanks for any help. > VL
Response:
Checked all, under the dash and under the hood. Found a bunch of relays behind the dash, behind the radio,but have no clue what they’re for. The ‘94 doesn’t have a GEM so I know that’s not one of them.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Have you checked the fuses under the hood? Another possibility is a > fusible link. Even if you find a bad fuse or link you may need to > keep looking for a short somewhere. >Got the same problem on my ‘94 Limited. My driver window motor is kaput >also, but that went before the other stuff went out. Wife said she heard a >"pop" from behind the dash about in the center of the car just before the >radio and stuff went. All fuses are good, headlights flash when the lock >button is hit, no door locks, no interior lights,no hood light, everything >else works fine. >Anyone have any ideas for us? >TIA
Response:
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