You may be making perfectly valid statements about composition and grammer, but that was not the point.  If someone said to me" My house be on fire!", as negatively I feel about ebonics, should I correct their language or help put the fire out?  Getting into a rant about language on a quasi-technical forum like the  Explorer site seem to be a much more emotional response on your part than  my reply, which advised you to focus on the subject at hand rather than going off the road, as it were. I can’t decide whether your little melt down was because you have had little contact with people who don’t do well with the language, or too much contact with non-native English speakers. I have to tell you that my first reaction to your first email entry did not evoke the word "prig".  It was about 3 levels worse than that. Have a great weekend

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> For syclone and Big Bill: > If either of you want to have a rational discussion about > the importance of being able to write clearly, and/or the > nature of ad hominem attacks, I’d be happy to continue to > exchange views either off-line, or in a more appropriate > newsgroup – perhaps one dealing with English composition > skills (if there is one) or one devoted to argumentation > (again, if there is one.) > I don’t understand the obvious negative emotional response > my original post prompted from you.

Some people just need something to gripe about. Do you see the irony? There are few posters that I won’t respond to, but the one’s with run-on sentences with no punctuation and no capitalization just seem lazy to me. If they can’t be bothered, neither can I. There are way more messages on the groups that I subscribe to, than I could ever read. Why waste time on the one’s that I have to decipher, because of a lazy poster? That’s just me. Poeple who disagree are of no consequence. H

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>For syclone and Big Bill: >If either of you want to have a rational discussion about >the importance of being able to write clearly, and/or the >nature of ad hominem attacks, I’d be happy to continue to >exchange views either off-line, or in a more appropriate >newsgroup – perhaps one dealing with English composition >skills (if there is one) or one devoted to argumentation >(again, if there is one.) >I don’t understand the obvious negative emotional response >my original post prompted from you.  An echo from another >time or another place perhaps?

The negative response by me was because you were complaining about negative responses, when you made the first one in this thread. You can discuss this all you want, but facts are facts. — Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> A fiction, as it were. Politeness. Something you seem to > be unfamiliar > with. > It is a fine line between politeness, fantasy, political > correctness, and linguistic imprecision. > Illegal alien ==> undocumented worker. > Prostitute ==> generic sex street vendor. > Janitor ==> sanitary engineer. > Cool ==> kewl > >As for "lossen up a bit," that is what our public school > >system, and much of higher education, has been doing with > >academic standards for more than a generation.  It is > called > >dumbing down, and it is not all caused by affirmative > action > >pressures to meet quotas. > How did you devine the OP is a product of our public > schools? > Do you mean divine?  I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt > and assume merely a typo.  :-) > I did not assume the OP is a product of our public school, > nor did I make such a statement.  But, if I had to guess, > I’d estimate that the probability is .95 or higher that the > OP did not graduate from a private school in an English > speaking country. > See how that works? > No.  What is your point? > There are a few possibilities. IAC. Plugged fuel filter. > Too much crap > in the tank. > Among others. > Again, I commend you for your patience, and ability to > understand what the OP was trying to communicate.  I choose, > regularly, not to devote much energy trying to understand > poorly written material.  Although retired now, I spent many > years reading the essays of public school graduates – many > of whom had all As and Bs in English yet could not > conjugate, punctuate, or spell beyond a 4th grade level. > I truly believe, and you may differ of course, that we do a > disservice to students and others by rewarding them for > shoddy work, by not pointing out their errors and thus > giving them avenues of growth and improvement, and by > pretending that all output is equally valued by society.

Response:

Ladies and gentlemen, what we have here is an honest to goodness " prig".  Just leave him/her alone in his/her feelings of righteousness. They never, ever get the point.

Response:

As the thread shifts from rational discussion of ideas to ad hominem attacks I bow out, giving you and others the opportunity to have the last word.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Ladies and gentlemen, what we have here is an honest to goodness " > prig".  Just leave him/her alone in his/her feelings of righteousness. > They never, ever get the point.

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AMEN!

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>As the thread shifts from rational discussion of ideas to ad >hominem attacks I bow out, giving you and others the >opportunity to have the last word.

Let’s see who threw the first ad hominem attack. Here it is: "Yes, you sure do.  If English is not your first language, I suggest an ESL (English as a Second Language) class at a local high school or junior college.  If that is not the case, then you might seek a remedial English class at a similar institution.  Suggested topics for early attention include capitalization, punctuation, sentence structure, and proof-reading. That, of course, won’t make your car run any better, but it might enable you to seek assistance in a more effective manner." Who wrote that? Surprise! It was you. > Ladies and gentlemen, what we have here is an honest to >goodness " > prig".  Just leave him/her alone in his/her feelings of >righteousness. > They never, ever get the point.

– Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

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WELL SAID!

Response:

For syclone and Big Bill: If either of you want to have a rational discussion about the importance of being able to write clearly, and/or the nature of ad hominem attacks, I’d be happy to continue to exchange views either off-line, or in a more appropriate newsgroup – perhaps one dealing with English composition skills (if there is one) or one devoted to argumentation (again, if there is one.) I don’t understand the obvious negative emotional response my original post prompted from you.  An echo from another time or another place perhaps? For my "real" email address, change dubya to w. — CWLee A woman, without her man, is nothing. A woman: without her, man is nothing. Punctuation DOES make a difference!

Response:

i need help. iwas running my car yesterday and it turned off, ever since then every time i turn it on i have to hit the gas pedal several times and it goes on after 3 min turns off again some people have told me is the gas tank does someone can help me and how much it would be to solve this problem

Response:

> i need help.

Yes, you sure do.  If English is not your first language, I suggest an ESL (English as a Second Language) class at a local high school or junior college.  If that is not the case, then you might seek a remedial English class at a similar institution.  Suggested topics for early attention include capitalization, punctuation, sentence structure, and proof-reading. That, of course, won’t make your car run any better, but it might enable you to seek assistance in a more effective manner. iwas running my car yesterday and it turned off, ever since – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> then every time i turn it on i have to hit the gas pedal several times and > it goes on after 3 min turns off again some people have told me is the gas > tank does someone can help me and how much it would be to solve this > problem

Response:

I find it amusing that some people think that putting down others who may not be as proficient in English as they are is wonderful way to communicate.  The gentleman’s grammar and sentence structure were not perfect, but I was able to understand the difficulty he was having with his vehicle. I would suggest that MS. or Mr. CWLee loosen up a bit, sit back and have a nice glass of wine.  If that doesn’t work, there is an appropriate web site to meet others that share your feelings http;//www.imabigot.net

Response:

> The gentleman’s …

How did you possibly conclude the writer was a gentleman? Or even male? > I was able to understand the difficulty he was having > with his vehicle.

You are to be commended for your patience and abililty with such attempts to communicate in writing.  For the benefit of the OP, I hope his bosses are always so accepting of his writing skills. > I would suggest that MS. or Mr. CWLee loosen up a bit, sit back and > have a nice glass of wine.

A glass of wine sounds good. As for "lossen up a bit," that is what our public school system, and much of higher education, has been doing with academic standards for more than a generation.  It is called dumbing down, and it is not all caused by affirmative action pressures to meet quotas. Back on topic, what is the problem with the OP’s car, and how can it be repaired?  I did not find your diagnosis or recommendations.

Response:

>> The gentleman’s … >How did you possibly conclude the writer was a gentleman? >Or even male?

A fiction, as it were. Politeness. Something you seem to be unfamiliar with. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I was able to understand the difficulty he was having > with his vehicle. >You are to be commended for your patience and abililty with >such attempts to communicate in writing.  For the benefit of >the OP, I hope his bosses are always so accepting of his >writing skills. > I would suggest that MS. or Mr. CWLee loosen up a bit, sit >back and > have a nice glass of wine. >A glass of wine sounds good. >As for "lossen up a bit," that is what our public school >system, and much of higher education, has been doing with >academic standards for more than a generation.  It is called >dumbing down, and it is not all caused by affirmative action >pressures to meet quotas.

How did you devine the OP is a product of our public schools? See how that works? >Back on topic, what is the problem with the OP’s car, and >how can it be repaired?  I did not find your diagnosis or >recommendations.

There are a few possibilities. IAC. Plugged fuel filter. Too much crap in the tank. Among others. I didn’t see any from you, either. — Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

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> A fiction, as it were. Politeness. Something you seem to be unfamiliar > with.

It is a fine line between politeness, fantasy, political correctness, and linguistic imprecision. Illegal alien ==> undocumented worker. Prostitute ==> generic sex street vendor. Janitor ==> sanitary engineer. Cool ==> kewl >As for "lossen up a bit," that is what our public school >system, and much of higher education, has been doing with >academic standards for more than a generation.  It is called >dumbing down, and it is not all caused by affirmative action >pressures to meet quotas. > How did you devine the OP is a product of our public

schools? Do you mean divine?  I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume merely a typo.  :-) I did not assume the OP is a product of our public school, nor did I make such a statement.  But, if I had to guess, I’d estimate that the probability is .95 or higher that the OP did not graduate from a private school in an English speaking country. > See how that works?

No.  What is your point? > There are a few possibilities. IAC. Plugged fuel filter. Too much crap > in the tank. > Among others.

Again, I commend you for your patience, and ability to understand what the OP was trying to communicate.  I choose, regularly, not to devote much energy trying to understand poorly written material.  Although retired now, I spent many years reading the essays of public school graduates – many of whom had all As and Bs in English yet could not conjugate, punctuate, or spell beyond a 4th grade level. I truly believe, and you may differ of course, that we do a disservice to students and others by rewarding them for shoddy work, by not pointing out their errors and thus giving them avenues of growth and improvement, and by pretending that all output is equally valued by society.

Response:

>I’m looking for people who have replaced the OE tires on their Pilots. >I’ve >got a few thousand miles to go, and would like to hear if anyone has >recommendations. I’m looking for a quiet all-season tire. > A fair number of people who frequent http://www.hondapilot.org/ forums > are using the Michelin Cross Terrains.  You might check the forums to > read what people have said about those and the other tires that people > have tried. > I only have about 2800 miles on my Pilot so I don’t have any help to > offer you, other than the Goodyear Integrity’s mine came with are > crappy tires.

That seems to be a universal truth. I owned a Highlander that came with tires that, well, should have been illegal. Worst ever. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> — > Mike Iglesias                          Email: > University of California, Irvine       phone:       949-824-6926 > Network & Academic Computing Services  FAX:         949-824-2069

Response:

>> I only have about 2800 miles on my Pilot so I don’t have any help to > offer you, other than the Goodyear Integrity’s mine came with are > crappy tires. > That seems to be a universal truth. I owned a Highlander that came with > tires that, well, should have been illegal. Worst ever.

My 05 Pilot has those tires.  What’s bad about them..? —   Larry J. – Remove spamtrap in ALLCAPS to e-mail   "If you take out the killings, Washington actually   has a very low crime rate."      - Marion Barry, mayor of Washington, D.C.

Response:

>> I only have about 2800 miles on my Pilot so I don’t have any help to >> offer you, other than the Goodyear Integrity’s mine came with are >> crappy tires. > That seems to be a universal truth. I owned a Highlander that came with > tires that, well, should have been illegal. Worst ever. > My 05 Pilot has those tires.  What’s bad about them..?

If they’re the same Bridgstones that came on my 2001 Highlander, then I can’t explain the difference of opinion. They were fair to poor on dry pavement, bad on wet pavement, and useless in snow. The Highlander could get going OK in snow, but steering and braking were an absolute nightmare! Very, very dangerous tires in the snow. I dumped them for Cross Terrains, and it was like I bought a new vehicle. None of the bad habits of the Bridgstones, and the car became a tank in the snow. No slipping and sliding, and traction was simply amazing. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> — >  Larry J. – Remove spamtrap in ALLCAPS to e-mail >  "If you take out the killings, Washington actually >  has a very low crime rate." >     – Marion Barry, mayor of Washington, D.C.

Response:

>My 05 Pilot has those tires.  What’s bad about them..?

Mine follow the cracks in the freeway pavement at times.  My old Ford Explorer with Michelin LTX M/S didn’t do that.  Others have complained about poor traction, especially on wet pavement. You can read more about the Integrity issues on http://www.hondapilot.org/ There’s a lot of good info in the forums there too, so check it out. — University of California, Irvine       phone:       949-824-6926 Network & Academic Computing Services  FAX:         949-824-2069

Response:

<snip> > I only have about 2800 miles on my Pilot so I don’t have any help to > offer you, other than the Goodyear Integrity’s mine came with are > crappy tires.

        How so? — Tp, —  (  )/ (  )    —-  -<.  No Lawsuit Ever Fixed A Moron…

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> <snip> > I only have about 2800 miles on my Pilot so I don’t have any help to > offer you, other than the Goodyear Integrity’s mine came with are > crappy tires. >        How so?

I bought my Pilot in March, was able to drive the tires in dry, wet, snowy, and icy conditions. It was adequate on dry, barely adequate on wet, and totally unacceptable on snow and ice. At 1.500 miles, I replaced the tires with Michelin Cross Terrains, and there was a difference of night and day. Last winter in MA was very snowy, and the Cross Terrains were wonderful under all conditions. No comparison whatsoever. The Goodyear Integritys were utterly horrible compared to the Michelins. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> — > Tp, > —  (  )/ (  )    —-  -<. > No Lawsuit Ever Fixed A Moron…

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><snip> > I only have about 2800 miles on my Pilot so I don’t have any help to > offer you, other than the Goodyear Integrity’s mine came with are > crappy tires. >        How so?

They have a tendency to follow cracks/joints in the road rather than going where I want to go, the handling isn’t much to speak of, and handling on in the rain is poor.  I had Michelin LTX M/S on my old Explorer, and they were great. — University of California, Irvine       phone:       949-824-6926 Network & Academic Computing Services  FAX:         949-824-2069

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -><snip> >> I only have about 2800 miles on my Pilot so I don’t have any help to >> offer you, other than the Goodyear Integrity’s mine came with are >> crappy tires. >        How so? > They have a tendency to follow cracks/joints in the road rather than > going where I want to go, the handling isn’t much to speak of, and > handling on in the rain is poor.  I had Michelin LTX M/S on my old > Explorer, and they were great.

    How do you separate the characteristics of tires from that of the vehicle?  In other words, how can you compare an EXplorer with Michelin’s to a Pilot with GoodYears?  They are two different, completely different vehicles…  Help me to understand how you come to your conclusions about the GoodYear tires. — Tp, —  (  )/ (  )    —-  -<.  No Lawsuit Ever Fixed A Moron…

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>    How do you separate the characteristics of tires from that of the vehicle?  In >other words, how can you compare an EXplorer with Michelin’s to a Pilot with >GoodYears?  They are two different, completely different vehicles…  Help me to >understand how you come to your conclusions about the GoodYear tires.

The Explorer did pretty much the same thing with the OEM Firestone tires.  When I put the Michelin tires on it, the wandering and poor handling went away.  Yes, I’m assuming the Pilot would improve with something else.  But if you read the comments from people on http://www.hondapilot.org/ about tires, their handling improved markedly when they replace the Integrity tires with something else. — University of California, Irvine       phone:       949-824-6926 Network & Academic Computing Services  FAX:         949-824-2069

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->    How do you separate the characteristics of tires from that of the vehicle?  In >other words, how can you compare an EXplorer with Michelin’s to a Pilot with >GoodYears?  They are two different, completely different vehicles…  Help me to >understand how you come to your conclusions about the GoodYear tires. > The Explorer did pretty much the same thing with the OEM Firestone > tires.  When I put the Michelin tires on it, the wandering and poor > handling went away.  Yes, I’m assuming the Pilot would improve with > something else.  But if you read the comments from people on > http://www.hondapilot.org/ about tires, their handling improved > markedly when they replace the Integrity tires with something else. > — > University of California, Irvine       phone:       949-824-6926 > Network & Academic Computing Services  FAX:         949-824-2069

    Comments from vehicle owners are just that, comments/opinions.  My problem with that, is it’s, subjective.  I’d like to see some, verifiable, facts to go along with the opinions.     Maybe you can take your Pilot out to the Streets of Willow.  Take some hot laps and record the lap times before and after you install other tires.  Then you would know for sure just how crappy the GoodYear tires are. – Tp, —  (  )/ (  )    —-  -<.  No Lawsuit Ever Fixed A Moron…

Response:

I’m looking for people who have replaced the OE tires on their Pilots. I’ve got a few thousand miles to go, and would like to hear if anyone has recommendations. I’m looking for a quiet all-season tire.

Response:

>I’m looking for people who have replaced the OE tires on their Pilots. I’ve >got a few thousand miles to go, and would like to hear if anyone has >recommendations. I’m looking for a quiet all-season tire.

A fair number of people who frequent http://www.hondapilot.org/ forums are using the Michelin Cross Terrains.  You might check the forums to read what people have said about those and the other tires that people have tried. I only have about 2800 miles on my Pilot so I don’t have any help to offer you, other than the Goodyear Integrity’s mine came with are crappy tires. — University of California, Irvine       phone:       949-824-6926 Network & Academic Computing Services  FAX:         949-824-2069

Response:

Thanks for the reply Bill Unfortunately this Ford dealership is 450 miles from my home (I was away for Easter).  I did ask for them to go over the charges with me and they showed me a sheet detailing the steps.  I needed my car back and really couldnt think of an argument at the time.  Actually, I still cant think of one other than it just seems like too much money.

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I have the same problem with my ‘95 EB.  Where is the Lamp Out Module and S212?  How do I test the LOM? Thanks!

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>What can I do?  Should I contest the charge with Visa? >I dont mind paying for fair service.  Is there any more consensus on >this as being excessive?

Personally, I would have discussed this while I was there. Now, I’d go and still discuss it with them. Ask to be shown what steps to troubleshoot were taken, and then ask how those steps compared to the troubleshooting guides in their manuals. It wouldn’t hurt to find those manuals, and see what the troubleshooting steps are, and see how much time it should take to follow them. If you don’t get any satisfaction, I’d go ahead and contest with Visa, then ask them (the dealership) to kick it up a notch, and see if they can discuss it with some managers further up the line. Small claims court is a possible next step, but it will take some preperation on your part. You’ll need to familiarize yourself with the troubleshooting procedures, and how long they may take with a competent technician. You’d need to present a convincing case, because they will. Good luck! — Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

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What can I do?  Should I contest the charge with Visa? I dont mind paying for fair service.  Is there any more consensus on this as being excessive?

Response:

>Thank you very much for the response.  I wish I had seen it sooner. >Took it to a Ford Dealership and they diagnosed a faulty lamp out >module (LOM) and replaced it.  Total charge…. sit down…. $605 >I feel like I was taken.  He said it took 5.8 hours of diagnosis. >I repaired the LOM a year ago when it failed and my headlight was out. >I should have figured it was the LOM.  Geez, $600 gone

I would question that diagnosis charge. Being a dealership, they have the Ford manuals; these manuals have troubleshooting guides, and 5 hours to diagnose *any* electrical problem is simply too long. — Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

Response:

Thank you very much for the response.  I wish I had seen it sooner. Took it to a Ford Dealership and they diagnosed a faulty lamp out module (LOM) and replaced it.  Total charge…. sit down…. $605 I feel like I was taken.  He said it took 5.8 hours of diagnosis. I repaired the LOM a year ago when it failed and my headlight was out. I should have figured it was the LOM.  Geez, $600 gone

Response:

Please help if you can. Last night while driving to visit family for Easter I was pulled over and ticketed for no brake lights. I stopped and checked the following: bulbs – good, both filaments fuses – good Brake switch – good What else could I check?  The third brake light (high light) works fine as does my cruise control (disengages when I step on the brake). Now I’m 500 miles from home and have 3 days to fix this before the ticket gets escalated. I had a similar weird problem with my headlight last year that turned out to be due to a faulty Lamp Out Module (LOM) that I never would have resolved if not for this newsgroup.

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John,     I have taken a close look at my 97 Ford Explorer Service Manual CD wiring diagrams. Thought it would be worthwhile since I also have an 97EB Exp. I can email you the diagram but it is pretty simple so I’ll explain the circuit and where you can check furthur. THE CIRCUIT (—) is wires. IS BRAKE ON/OFF SW —->SPLICE(S212) —->HIGH MT LAMP and LAMP OUT MODULE —> L & R BRAKE LAMPS —> GROUND I would: 1. With brake pedal firmly applied check for voltage in the L&R BRAKE LAMP sockets with a meter (be careful not to short out). If 12 or more VDC you probably have a ground circuit problem. With so much plastic there is a lot of wire ground circuits. 2. If no voltage ther may be some problem in the LAMP OUT MODULE (unlikely). 3. Another possibility is just a poor connection which will allow good voltage readings but will not allow enough current to illuminate the lamps. Iv’e seen this on older cars. Letme know if you want the diagrams. Jerry in Kingston, WA

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Please help if you can. > Last night while driving to visit family for Easter I was pulled over > and ticketed for no brake lights. > I stopped and checked the following: > bulbs – good, both filaments > fuses – good > Brake switch – good > What else could I check?  The third brake light (high light) works fine > as does my cruise control (disengages when I step on the brake). > Now I’m 500 miles from home and have 3 days to fix this before the > ticket gets escalated. > I had a similar weird problem with my headlight last year that turned > out to be due to a faulty Lamp Out Module (LOM) that I never would have > resolved if not for this newsgroup.

Response:

i have a 2001 ford explorer sport 4×4. it just clicked over 56000 miles and this whining gets louder by the day. luckily i work with a retied ford mech. he drove it for 2 miles and said definitly rear end going out. i got online and found over 50 cases of the same thing . they all say ford has known about this since ealy 2004. it just seems to affect 3.73 ratios. dealer says tough. anybody have suggestions? according to other forums new rear end not much help because problem is so widespread. — shawn2001

Response:

There were some rear diff noise concerns stemming from lube oil concerns (memory thing). I don’t get to work on little stuff much but I do know the other guys were working on some of these. If you would like, post your VIN (or send it off list if you have concerns) and I can run it through OASIS to find any relevant TSBs, etc.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i have a 2001 ford explorer sport 4×4. it just clicked over 56000 miles > and this whining gets louder by the day. luckily i work with a retied > ford mech. he drove it for 2 miles and said definitly rear end going > out. i got online and found over 50 cases of the same thing . they all > say ford has known about this since ealy 2004. it just seems to affect > 3.73 ratios. dealer says tough. anybody have suggestions? according to > other forums new rear end not much help because problem is so > widespread. > — > shawn2001

Response:

This is a big problem with a number of Fords. My 2002 F-150, FX4, has a whine. I took it back to the dealer. The took off the cover and inspected clearances etc. and said it was ok. It still whines. it doesn’t seem to have gotten worse, but it’s still there. My wife’s 2004 Sport Trac has a whine when you hit 70. it only has 8000 miles on it. It seems like the problem here is that Ford doesn’t seem to be to concerned or they would have figured out the problem by now. Ron

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There were some rear diff noise concerns stemming from lube oil concerns > (memory thing). I don’t get to work on little stuff much but I do know the > other guys were working on some of these. If you would like, post your VIN > (or send it off list if you have concerns) and I can run it through OASIS > to > find any relevant TSBs, etc. > i have a 2001 ford explorer sport 4×4. it just clicked over 56000 miles > and this whining gets louder by the day. luckily i work with a retied > ford mech. he drove it for 2 miles and said definitly rear end going > out. i got online and found over 50 cases of the same thing . they all > say ford has known about this since ealy 2004. it just seems to affect > 3.73 ratios. dealer says tough. anybody have suggestions? according to > other forums new rear end not much help because problem is so > widespread. > — > shawn2001

Response:

Remember that car from the 60s? That was the big thing about that car.. that and the fact that it had child locks in the back that you couldn’t open without a key or something to stick into this little slot to pull them up. That rear end whine. It’s funny how that’s one of the things I associated with my sister and her husband. I was young; they were much older and for some reason that whine was a defining thing.  Anita and Bruce, the ones with the whine and the locks you can’t open :O) They ought to bring back the Comet, maybe the Falcon too. But leave out the whine. Hey! My father had a Galaxy and it’s rear end was quiet. Comet and Galaxy!! My friend had a Nova. — Regards, Anthony Giorgianni The return address for this post is fictitious. Please reply by posting back to the newsgroup.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This is a big problem with a number of Fords. My 2002 F-150, FX4, has a > whine. I took it back to the dealer. The took off the cover and inspected > clearances etc. and said it was ok. It still whines. it doesn’t seem to have > gotten worse, but it’s still there. My wife’s 2004 Sport Trac has a whine > when you hit 70. it only has 8000 miles on it. It seems like the problem > here is that Ford doesn’t seem to be to concerned or they would have figured > out the problem by now. > Ron

Response:

Ahhh, yes….. "Where were you in ‘62?". The waning days of the Stupidbaker…… Ford was trying to market the Frontenac – a rebadged Falson with the ugliest grille in the world – as a distinctly Canadian automobile…. the Fairlane Thunderbolt….. How I sometimes miss those glory days…

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I was driving a ‘61 Vette with two fours, cam and lifters.  Yeah, I miss that too. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Ahhh, yes….. "Where were you in ‘62?". >The waning days of the Stupidbaker…… Ford was trying to market the >Frontenac – a rebadged Falson with the ugliest grille in the world – as a >distinctly Canadian automobile…. the Fairlane Thunderbolt….. >How I sometimes miss those glory days…

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I’m having problems with an intermittent oil pressure indication on a 99 Explorer Sport with a 4.0L SOHC, at cold start up. Rather than just replace the pressure switch sensor it seems attractive to make the gauge in the dash a real linear indicator as suggested in theses earlier posts; http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer/br…"oil+pressure+gauge"+modification&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&rnum=1 The part they suggest has a threaded stud as it’s connection. I’m trying to find a part number for a linear sender with the same connector as the stock switch. My local dealer has the referenced linear sender which has a screw terminal,  and the stock switch but was unwilling to look for the linear sender with the correct connector. Anybody know the Ford or MotorCraft P/N? Steve F PO Box 397082 MIT Br        Cambridge MA  02139-7082              617 258 3754

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Let me guess.  You get 0 pressure, then after a few seconds, it comes up to normal?  There’s a TSB on that one.  It’s the sender. > I’m having problems with an intermittent oil pressure indication > on a 99 Explorer Sport with a 4.0L SOHC, at cold start up. > Rather than just replace the pressure switch sensor it seems attractive > to make the gauge in the dash a real linear indicator as suggested in > theses earlier posts;

http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer/br…"oil+pressure+gauge"+modification&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&rnum=1 > The part they suggest has a threaded stud as it’s connection. > I’m trying to find a part number for a linear sender with the same > connector as the stock switch. My local dealer has the referenced > linear sender which has a screw terminal,  and the stock switch but > was unwilling to look for the linear sender with the correct connector. > Anybody know the Ford or MotorCraft P/N? > Steve F

*** > Steve Finberg                        W1GSL

> PO Box 397082 MIT Br        Cambridge MA  02139-7082              617 258 3754

*** – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Can anyone provide instuctions for programming the key fob for my 1997 Explorer. I replaced the batteries in the key fob that hasn’t worked for a while.   The doors do not open.  I remember something about turning the key in the ignition on and off five times but don’t remember all the details. Is it possible to program one key fob from the other working unit? Thanks in advance Ron Munroe Falls, Ohio

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> Can anyone provide instuctions for programming the key fob for my > 1997 Explorer. > I replaced the batteries in the key fob that hasn’t worked for a > while. The doors do not open.  I remember something about turning > the key in the ignition on and off five times but don’t remember > all the details. Is it possible to program one key fob from the > other working unit? > Thanks in advance > Ron > Munroe Falls, Ohio

Cycle ignition from OFF to RUN or ACC five (5) times within 10 seconds, ending in RUN or ACC. All doors will lock then unlock to confirm programming mode. Press any button on 1st remote transmitter. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. Press any button on 2nd transmitter (up to 4 transmitters total possible). Turn ignition to OFF. The door locks will lock then unlock to confirm programming. If you have the RKE keypad on the door, you follow a different procedure than you do without one: Enter the five-digit permanent code into keyless entry keypad Within five seconds, press 1/2 switch. Within five seconds, press any button on the first transmitter. The locks will cycle to confirm successful programming. Within five seconds, press any button on the second transmitter. Repeat step c for each additional transmitter (up to four total). Press 7/8 and 9/0 together to end the programming session or wait more than 7.5 seconds. Any fobs not reprogrammed at this time will not work.  If another Ford is nearby and the driver happens to press one of his buttons at the right time, his remote will work on your vehicle.  On the other hand, if you happen to press a button on your remote while someone nearby is reprogramming his fobs, your remote will be captured by his car.  You would then have to reprogram all your fobs to get this fob  to work again. Remmber to do all the fobs at once.  You cannot program just one fob and expect the others to still work. — Earl F. Parrish

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Anyone have any links about taking the radio out of a 02 explorer? TIA, lyndo

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It’s a long URL, sorry: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?product_id=870835&cat=4429… Good luck, Steven – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Anyone have any links about taking the radio out of a 02 explorer? > TIA, lyndo

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AFAIK, the 2002 does not take the old Ford wire radio tool.  THis is a bit peripheral, but may help:           http://www.pro-fit-intl.com/Adobe/FO-71-02.pdf — FWIW; AFAIK; IMHO; YMMV; yadda, yadda, yadda.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Anyone have any links about taking the radio out of a 02 explorer? > TIA, lyndo

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I don’t know if it’s the same set up on a 2002, but you can look here: http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/removal.htm Hope this helps.

Anyone have any links about taking the radio out of a 02 explorer? TIA, lyndo

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Ken – Within the last 6 months, someone named Mike, IIRC, posted pictures on his website showing how to do this.  Unfortuantely, I can’t find the link, and Google Groups search doesn’t seem to come up with his post. Perhaps he will see your request and post again. HOWEVER – before he posted his nice tutorial, I had to remove the radio/6-CD from the dash of my 02 Explorer.  I was able to do it quite easily using a PLASTIC (not metal) putty knife with a 1-1/2" wide blade.   Simply insert the blade firmly into the seam, halfway up either side of the surround, and pry the surround gently out.  The surround is held in place with snap-in fittings, and with gentle pressure they will pop out.  As I recall, there are 6 snaps – 4 at the corners, and 2 midway up the sides.  By starting at the sides, where the seam is straight, you minimize the chance of nicking the plastic with the corner of the putty knife. HTH Bill Jeffrey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My radio with the single CD player decided to not eject the last CD I > played. I guess I’ll have to remove the radio and try to remove it that > way. Can someone tell me how to get the radio out? I poked around a bit, > but didn’t want to break the surrounding plastic. > Thanks > Ken > ‘02 XLS

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Go to this site. http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalFordExplorerSportStr.htm Sy Cohen

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Thanks, I don’t have the DIN holes, but I found the correct link on the originating page.  It was as Bill said, just pry off the panel ever so carefully.

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My radio with the single CD player decided to not eject the last CD I played. I guess I’ll have to remove the radio and try to remove it that way. Can someone tell me how to get the radio out? I poked around a bit, but didn’t want to break the surrounding plastic. Thanks Ken ‘02 XLS

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I have a 98 Ford Explorer XLT, 5.0L AWD.  Sometimes, but not always, the car just doesn’t heat up.  When it doesn’t heat up I obviously have no heat. The temperature gauge doesn’t show the car heating up at all.  But sometimes it does heat up, however when this happens I have too much heat coming out of the heater.  I can’t seem to turn the heater setting down and usually end up turning the heater off and on to control how hot it gets in the car.  Any ideas. –sean.

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Sounds like a bad thermostat to me, sticking open and closed.  Better get it replaced, flush the cooling system and add new anti-freeze. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 98 Ford Explorer XLT, 5.0L AWD.  Sometimes, but not always, the car >just doesn’t heat up.  When it doesn’t heat up I obviously have no heat. >The temperature gauge doesn’t show the car heating up at all.  But sometimes >it does heat up, however when this happens I have too much heat coming out >of the heater.  I can’t seem to turn the heater setting down and usually end >up turning the heater off and on to control how hot it gets in the car.  Any >ideas. >–sean.

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Hello all: I bought a 2002 Ford Explorer with 42,000 miles on it.  I love the truck, excepet for these niggling issues. 1.  Between 2300 and 2800 RPM I hear a noise like metal being ground up in a blender. 2.  there is an annoying squeak that comes from the rear end of the truck when I go over bumps.  I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this. 3.  The truck idles roughly, I cleaned out the MAF and changed the air filter.  I also had it scanned, and there were no trouble codes found. Any clues as to what may be causing this? Thank you very much. Homerjay.

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1. Where’s the grinding noise coming from? 2. squeak could be anything. Shock? Jack loose in storage rubbing something? 3. Rough idle…All the time? when cold?  If all the time I’d lean towards the IAC valve plunger needing a cleaning. If when cold only…Might be an intake manifold leak.  Don’t rule out a fuel filter change.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello all: > I bought a 2002 Ford Explorer with 42,000 miles on it.  I love the > truck, excepet for these niggling issues. > 1.  Between 2300 and 2800 RPM I hear a noise like metal being ground up > in a blender. > 2.  there is an annoying squeak that comes from the rear end of the > truck when I go over bumps.  I was wondering if anyone else has > experienced this. > 3.  The truck idles roughly, I cleaned out the MAF and changed the air > filter.  I also had it scanned, and there were no trouble codes found. > Any clues as to what may be causing this? > Thank you very much. > Homerjay.

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We have a 2002 Explorer we bought new and it has the same damn grinding noise.  What the hell is that?  And we have the same squeak in the rear. Sounds like a spring to me.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 1. Where’s the grinding noise coming from? > 2. squeak could be anything. Shock? Jack loose in storage rubbing > something? > 3. Rough idle…All the time? when cold?  If all the time I’d lean towards > the IAC valve plunger needing a cleaning. If when cold only…Might be an > intake manifold leak.  Don’t rule out a fuel filter change. > Hello all: > I bought a 2002 Ford Explorer with 42,000 miles on it.  I love the > truck, excepet for these niggling issues. > 1.  Between 2300 and 2800 RPM I hear a noise like metal being ground up > in a blender. > 2.  there is an annoying squeak that comes from the rear end of the > truck when I go over bumps.  I was wondering if anyone else has > experienced this. > 3.  The truck idles roughly, I cleaned out the MAF and changed the air > filter.  I also had it scanned, and there were no trouble codes found. > Any clues as to what may be causing this? > Thank you very much. > Homerjay.

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The manifold gasket was a problem on many of the 98’s. I had the problem on my 98 but the symptoms were somewhat different. In my case the car would idle up and then cycle up and down. It would not drop low enough to stall. Your leak might be worse than mine was. HTH Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It may be the IAC valve as posted in the other response, but in all > likelihood I’d say your manifold (either upper or lower) gaskets are > leaking.  If you had work previously done on the front timing chain and > tensioner, they should have replaced the lower intake manifold gaskets. > Even so, there is no guarantee on the quality of the work.  The cold idle > problem still existed on my 98 Explorer because the guys at the dealership > failed to torque the upper manifold to the lower manifold.  Found this out > when I replaced the lower manifold gaskets myself because the dealership > didn’t want to do the job again since they said they did it right! > Problem solved.  BTW – this mostly applies to the 4.0 SOHC engine. > My 98 Explorer will not remain in idle after a cold weather start.  It > turns over fine and initially goes up to a fast idle, but slowly drops > off to a stall.  I am required to feather the pedal at a 3000+ RPM range > to warm the engine before it will idle on its own.  Problem disappears > once the engine is warm, and is never a problem in warm weather.  No > associated ‘check engine light’.  I service normally (oil every 3-4k) and > follow mx book for mileage checkups.  Last checkup 8k miles ago at 64k > (unfortunately during the summer months when the problem is > non-existent). Is this a known Ford problem?  Anyone familiar with this? > Any suggestions?  I told the dealer mechanic about the problem at the 64k > checkup, but the problem still exists…don’t even know if he looked into > it.  Being a WI resident, the problem exists for about 5 months per year. > Thanks in advance for any help. Am planning to bring it in to a mechanic > once I have a bit more info available to me. > j urb

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When my IAC started going bad I didn’t notice it until the Fall when the weather started getting colder.  First symptom was that it took longer to "catch" than normal when starting, but would idle ok after the engine warmed up. After a couple of weeks (maybe a month) it got to where it wouldn’t start and idle on it’s own without holding the throttle open. I ended up cleaning the IAC valve soon after it got to that point, so I don’t know if the problem would have gone away once the weather warmed up.   My first "cleaning" lasted a couple of years (I used a throttle body cleaner that was marked safe for coated throttle plates). When it started having problems again I figured it was already on "borrowed" time and tried cleaning it again. I think I overdid it the second time because afterward it started making a trumpeting noise at idle (but it was a smooth idle . Replaced it a couple days later a new one from O’Reilly’s and that cured the trumpet. Real easy to replace on my ‘96 OHV V6. Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 98 Explorer will not remain in idle after a cold weather start.  It turns > over fine and initially goes up to a fast idle, but slowly drops off to a > stall.  I am required to feather the pedal at a 3000+ RPM range to warm the > engine before it will idle on its own.  Problem disappears once the engine > is warm, and is never a problem in warm weather.  No associated ‘check > engine light’.  I service normally (oil every 3-4k) and follow mx book for > mileage checkups.  Last checkup 8k miles ago at 64k (unfortunately during > the summer months when the problem is non-existent).  Is this a known Ford > problem?  Anyone familiar with this?  Any suggestions?  I told the dealer > mechanic about the problem at the 64k checkup, but the problem still > exists…don’t even know if he looked into it.  Being a WI resident, the > problem exists for about 5 months per year.  Thanks in advance for any help. > Am planning to bring it in to a mechanic once I have a bit more info > available to me. > j urb

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I have the exact same problem.  Was curious if yours is accompanied by a high pitched noise (vaccum leak) as you press/release the gas pedal on smooth hiway.   Mine also exhibits this problem, so i thought the two might be related as the other posts also mentioned a vaccum leak.

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Mine didn’t make any noise until I messed it up with my second "cleaning", and even then it was only at idle, until I opened the throttle a little – it sounded more like a horn than a high pitched noise.  However, when it’s fairly cold out I do have an intermittent high pitch squeal sound until warm-up, and that varies with throttle opening – usually at about cruising speed on the highway. It doesn’t do it all the time, just when the air is pretty cold, and it goes away once the engine is warmed up. When I took it in for that a couple years ago the dealer said it was "throttle plate whistle", had something to do with the material they make the throttle bodies out of these days, and I left it at that. It *has* been doing it more often this winter, so now you’ve got me wondering if maybe it is some type of gasket leak that closes up after the engine warms up…  Thanks!?!? Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have the exact same problem.  Was curious if yours is accompanied by a > high pitched noise (vaccum leak) as you press/release the gas pedal on > smooth hiway.   Mine also exhibits this problem, so i thought the two > might be related as the other posts also mentioned a vaccum leak.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My 98 Explorer will not remain in idle after a cold weather start.  It turns > over fine and initially goes up to a fast idle, but slowly drops off to a > stall.  I am required to feather the pedal at a 3000+ RPM range to warm the > engine before it will idle on its own.  Problem disappears once the engine > is warm, and is never a problem in warm weather.  No associated ‘check > engine light’.  I service normally (oil every 3-4k) and follow mx book for > mileage checkups.  Last checkup 8k miles ago at 64k (unfortunately during > the summer months when the problem is non-existent).  Is this a known Ford > problem?  Anyone familiar with this?  Any suggestions?  I told the dealer > mechanic about the problem at the 64k checkup, but the problem still > exists…don’t even know if he looked into it.  Being a WI resident, the > problem exists for about 5 months per year.  Thanks in advance for any help. > Am planning to bring it in to a mechanic once I have a bit more info > available to me.

Often cold idle problems are related to the IAC (Idle Air Control). This is cylindrical item attached to the intake manifold by two screws through a flange on the side of the cylinder. It will have an electrical connector on the rear of the cylinder. You can remove it and clean it and see if this corrects the problem. Or you can just replace it (~$75). Ed

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My 98 Explorer will not remain in idle after a cold weather start.  It turns over fine and initially goes up to a fast idle, but slowly drops off to a stall.  I am required to feather the pedal at a 3000+ RPM range to warm the engine before it will idle on its own.  Problem disappears once the engine is warm, and is never a problem in warm weather.  No associated ‘check engine light’.  I service normally (oil every 3-4k) and follow mx book for mileage checkups.  Last checkup 8k miles ago at 64k (unfortunately during the summer months when the problem is non-existent).  Is this a known Ford problem?  Anyone familiar with this?  Any suggestions?  I told the dealer mechanic about the problem at the 64k checkup, but the problem still exists…don’t even know if he looked into it.  Being a WI resident, the problem exists for about 5 months per year.  Thanks in advance for any help. Am planning to bring it in to a mechanic once I have a bit more info available to me. j urb

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