Electrical problem
Question:
YOU BUY A FORD YOU’VE BOUGHT THE BEST, YOU DRIVE ONE MILE AND WALK THE REST..
Response:
Take a look at Jeff Singleton’s website at <www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html> for an article on replacing the positive battery cable. It fails inside the insulation real close to the battery, in the section that ruins from the battery down to the starter. Since the battery to staretr relay section is still OK, most accessories will still work OK. Tthe symptom is the same as a starter defect, but you can do a little meter or jumper cable work to find out for sure. This has happened to me twice since the truck was new, and it now has a non-Ford cable that may last a bit longer. YMMV, of course. dr bob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Last Saturday I went to turn on my 1992 Explorer, the electrical lights on >the dashboard came on, but when the ignition was a bout to fire all >electricity went out. I checked the repair manual and it said to see if >the headlights come on, if not then the battery is discharged. So I had me >friend give me a jump. When the cables were attached all electrical >components functioned, but the engine would crank for a second and then I >would here that clicking sound from the solenoid.( I forgot to mention >when the cables were not attached their was no electricity in the vehicle) >We let the battery >charge for about 15 minutes and tried it again. The same thing happened, >so we were going to push the Explorer into a parking spot. When I turned >the ignition to the position where the dashboard lights up, nothing lit up >and just when I was going to put it in Neutral the dashboard lit up al >well as the ceiling and door panel lights. So I thought let me try and >start it. What do you know it started. We let it run for about 30 minutes >to charge. Ever since then it worked fine until yesterday when this >problem happened again anybody know whats happening. Is it a bad battery >that is not charging correctly?
Response:
I also have a 1992 explorer. the same thing happened to me on and off this past year. It took me a long time to figure out what was wrong. At first I thought it was the starter relay( the thing that clicks, not the problem), or maybe there was a short somewhere in the wiring. I would have all power, but then when I turned the key, I lost all power and I had to disconnect the battery and reconnect it to get power again. It turns out that the problem with mine was the positive battery cable. It didn’t look corroded, but it was. It had corroded under the plastic wire covering within the first few feet of the battery. From first glance the cable appeared fine. After I replaced the cable I haven’t had a problem since. Next time it happens try running a jumper cable from the positive battery terminal all the way under to the positive terminal on the starter and try starting it then. This worked for me when I got stranded once. If it starts, your problem is probably the battery cable and should be replaced. Cost is about $25-50 for the cable depending if you want OEM. I replaced it myself, pretty easy. Hope this helps Ben – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Last Saturday I went to turn on my 1992 Explorer, the electrical lights on >the dashboard came on, but when the ignition was a bout to fire all >electricity went out. I checked the repair manual and it said to see if
Response:
Check your battery cables for proper fit/connection, and while your at it, clean those terminals down to the shiny metal. Your problem sounds, although I am no expert, like a bad battery connection or dirty terminals.
:Last Saturday I went to turn on my 1992 Explorer, the electrical lights on :the dashboard came on, but when the ignition was a bout to fire all :electricity went out. I checked the repair manual and it said to see if :the headlights come on, if not then the battery is discharged. So I had me :friend give me a jump. When the cables were attached all electrical :components functioned, but the engine would crank for a second and then I :would here that clicking sound from the solenoid.( I forgot to mention :when the cables were not attached their was no electricity in the vehicle) :We let the battery :charge for about 15 minutes and tried it again. The same thing happened, :so we were going to push the Explorer into a parking spot. When I turned :the ignition to the position where the dashboard lights up, nothing lit up :and just when I was going to put it in Neutral the dashboard lit up al :well as the ceiling and door panel lights. So I thought let me try and :start it. What do you know it started. We let it run for about 30 minutes :to charge. Ever since then it worked fine until yesterday when this :problem happened again anybody know whats happening. Is it a bad battery :that is not charging correctly? : : 
| I I | | | DA | I || I | | | | |______ I | | I | | | | ISLAND | I || I | | | OF |______ I I | | | : : :
Response:
Last Saturday I went to turn on my 1992 Explorer, the electrical lights on the dashboard came on, but when the ignition was a bout to fire all electricity went out. I checked the repair manual and it said to see if the headlights come on, if not then the battery is discharged. So I had me friend give me a jump. When the cables were attached all electrical components functioned, but the engine would crank for a second and then I would here that clicking sound from the solenoid.( I forgot to mention when the cables were not attached their was no electricity in the vehicle) We let the battery charge for about 15 minutes and tried it again. The same thing happened, so we were going to push the Explorer into a parking spot. When I turned the ignition to the position where the dashboard lights up, nothing lit up and just when I was going to put it in Neutral the dashboard lit up al well as the ceiling and door panel lights. So I thought let me try and start it. What do you know it started. We let it run for about 30 minutes to charge. Ever since then it worked fine until yesterday when this problem happened again anybody know whats happening. Is it a bad battery that is not charging correctly? | | I I | | | DA | | I || I | | | | | |______ I | | I | | | | ISLAND | | I || I | | | OF | |______ I I | | |
Response:
Yes i think that you hav a short. I would advise you to get a wiring diagram from dealer or library and trace it down. I believe that the dome light should go to the Light switch on most cars and you when you turn the knob the light comes on and stays on. you could try to diconnect it there read it with a Volt ohm meter. Man those things are gettin cheap I got a mechanical one and a digital one for about 16 apiece at Wally World. The mechanical one is better for reading shorts with ac or dc influence in my Opinion ,(which isn’t worth much if you know me real well) I just believe that from experience. Chillytel
Response:
Sound like the door switches are shorted a little. It could also be a malfunction in the dimmer switch. -rif – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have an 83 Pontica Bonneville. The dome light stays on dimmly even when > the doors are completely closed and everthing is turned off. Do I have a > short somewhere? Any ideas? > Tom Mull
Response:
Or someone wired an alarm to the dome light switch and it is failing. > Sound like the door switches are shorted a little. It could also be a > malfunction in the dimmer switch. > -rif > I have an 83 Pontica Bonneville. The dome light stays on dimmly even when > the doors are completely closed and everthing is turned off. Do I have a > short somewhere? Any ideas? > Tom Mull
– Incorrigible punster — Do not incorrige.
Response:
I have an 83 Pontica Bonneville. The dome light stays on dimmly even when the doors are completely closed and everthing is turned off. Do I have a short somewhere? Any ideas? Tom Mull
Response:
I have an ‘89 Dodge Caravan with a strange intermittent problem. Every third or fourth time I start it, the rear wiper and/or washer comes on and won’t shut off until I turn off the engine. Then when I restart it, it’s usually ok. I expect some kind of short, but have no idea where to look. The garage said since it doesn’t always happen they’d have a tough time finding it.
Response:
If it seems to crank slow at all then the weak battery or poor connection is to blame. Low voltage seems to trigger this in those vehicles. — Steve Caspers – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have an ‘89 Dodge Caravan with a strange intermittent problem. Every > third or fourth time I start it, the rear wiper and/or washer comes on > and won’t shut off until I turn off the engine. Then when I restart it, > it’s usually ok. I expect some kind of short, but have no idea where to > look. The garage said since it doesn’t always happen they’d have a tough > time finding it.
Response:
This strange problem is not strange in accords. When ever the speed sensor fails the D4 bliks. But might not blink if the speedo is dead. The solution is to repair or replace the speed sensor on top of the tranny. Most speed sensor may be repaired. Open it up and see if you can strech this springs inside it a l ittle and save some bucks. Before you buy.
Response:
it indicates a problem
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I couldn’t find an Acura newsgroup, so I thought I would post this here. > 1994 Acura Legand L > 3.2 V6 > Auto > Problem: Bad speedo and mysterious blinking. > Okay, the speedo thing isn’t much of a mystery, but the square lamps that > surround the gear indicator in the dash have me puzzled. The D4 light > blinks, even when I am in another gear. I will be driving along, and > suddenly it starts blinking and doesn’t stop until I turn the car off…Does > this every time I drive it. Is it supposed to indicate a problem with the > tranny, or is it just screwed up? Please, someone help me out here. TIA > THANKS!
Response:
On some models with a sports program there is an S indicator on the dash that blinks if there is a problem. On others without the S indicator (like mine) the D4 indicator will flash (in any program) if the AT ECU has failed an internal diagnostic check. Drive slowly with no harsh accelleration until a dealer can check the system. I’ve noticed that sometimes if you don’t move the selector switch to the next position properly (sort of stuck between the detented positions) none of the indicators light up and the AT selects a curious ’safe mode’ program that doesn’t allow any harsh accelleration… Peter
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I couldn’t find an Acura newsgroup, so I thought I would post this here. > 1994 Acura Legand L > 3.2 V6 > Auto > Problem: Bad speedo and mysterious blinking. > Okay, the speedo thing isn’t much of a mystery, but the square lamps that > surround the gear indicator in the dash have me puzzled. The D4 light > blinks, even when I am in another gear. I will be driving along, and > suddenly it starts blinking and doesn’t stop until I turn the car off…Does > this every time I drive it. Is it supposed to indicate a problem with the > tranny, or is it just screwed up? Please, someone help me out here. TIA > THANKS!
Response:
Hi all, I couldn’t find an Acura newsgroup, so I thought I would post this here. 1994 Acura Legand L 3.2 V6 Auto Problem: Bad speedo and mysterious blinking. Okay, the speedo thing isn’t much of a mystery, but the square lamps that surround the gear indicator in the dash have me puzzled. The D4 light blinks, even when I am in another gear. I will be driving along, and suddenly it starts blinking and doesn’t stop until I turn the car off…Does this every time I drive it. Is it supposed to indicate a problem with the tranny, or is it just screwed up? Please, someone help me out here. TIA THANKS!
Response:
> If your Prelude is similar to my Accord, the switch that turns the > light on > when the door opens is right underneath the door latch. it’s sort > of a black > plastic sliding thing. make sure it’s not stuck in the "door > closed" > position. Mine did that for a while and needed some WD-40. If > that’s not it, > then maybe the switch has gone bad. > Good luck! > BBB
Okay I finally checked it today.. and you are right, the switch on the door seems to be ’stuck’.. when I move it with my fingers, the light DOES come on, and the "sensor" on the dash recognizes that the door is ajar, but the switch does it not want to "spring" back into its natural position.. I tried spraying WD-40 liberally all over it, and it still seems stuck.. I think the spring inside it could be worn out.. I also saw the phillips screw that Susan was referring to.. should I remove it and replace the spring (if indeed there is a spring in there)? Thanks in advance, James * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!
Response:
I doubt it. That just makes me think even more that it is that switch. It sounds more like it’s stuck in the closed position. Open the door and it’s right down there by where the door latches, but on the car, not on the door.
Response:
I agree with bob. I’m 120% sure it’s that switch. Yes, that’s an electrical problem. Thank god it’s not the Control unit problem, otherwise you won’t see none of the red lights in the dash. James, you have to go buy a screw driver take it off the door and soak it in really really hot boiling water, dry it and spray lubricant inside it. The hot water will get the dirt out, the spray will keep it from rusting. You gotta do it today. It seems you’d asked the same question twice, so I’m here to remind you.,,,so, now is a good time…&.. for god sake…take it out pa_l_e_a_s_e.. Susan > I doubt it. That just makes me think even more that it is that switch. It > sounds more like it’s stuck in the closed position. Open the door and it’s > right down there by where the door latches, but on the car, not on the door.
I just noticed that whenever I open the driver side door that on the dash, the red ’sensor’ light (which shows all ajar doors, trunk doors, etc..) for the door does not illuminate as it does on the right passenger side door. Could it be something else electrical?
Response:
If your Prelude is similar to my Accord, the switch that turns the light on when the door opens is right underneath the door latch. it’s sort of a black plastic sliding thing. make sure it’s not stuck in the "door closed" position. Mine did that for a while and needed some WD-40. If that’s not it, then maybe the switch has gone bad. Good luck! BBB
Response:
> > What does > it look like? > __ > from top looking down. It’s the size of pen cap located on the > door edge on > the trimming. The color is black. It has one screw holding it. When > unplugging the wire, don’t let it fall in. > Susan
I just noticed that whenever I open the driver side door that on the dash, the red ’sensor’ light (which shows all ajar doors, trunk doors, etc..) for the door does not illuminate as it does on the right passenger side door. Could it be something else electrical? * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!
Response:
Small little problem on my ‘88 Prelude S.. Whenever I open the passenger-side door, the cabin light illuminates, but whenever I open the driver-side door, it doesn’t.. I’m not a whiz (obviously) when it comes to the electrical, so any help to fix this annoyance would be appreciated. THANKS, James. * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!
Response:
Regarding cabin light [not activated by] driver-side door Steel the door switch from the passenger side and put it on the driver side, if it works then clean or adjust your the one originally from the driver side. If it doesn’t work then post back again. Susan
Response:
> What does
it look like? __ from top looking down. It’s the size of pen cap located on the door edge on the trimming. The color is black. It has one screw holding it. When unplugging the wire, don’t let it fall in. Susan
Response:
>Regarding cabin light [not activated by] driver-side door >Steel the door switch from the passenger side and put it on the driver >side, if it works then clean or adjust your the one originally from >the driver side. If it doesn’t work then post back again. >Susan
Where on the passenger side door, is this switch located? What does it look like? Can I just remove it like a clip? THANKS * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!
Response:
1) there was a voluntary recall for the distributor bearing on the 92 Accord…inspect your distributor. If the bearing is shot, the sensor assembly as well as the ignitor may be toast (both inside the distributor). Honda gave me a free distributor assembly on my 92 accord (tho it had not failed). 2) main relay may be shot. The main relay turns on the fuel pump and the ECU. It is a gray relay with a reddish base. It is underdash directly above the big silver cruise control module, to the left of the steering column. The main circuit board of the mr develops solder cracks. Touch up the solder connections or replace. 3) it’s also possible that your ignition switch is wearing out There are lots of grounds….you really need the factory service manual (about $55 from www.helminc.com …or less on www.ebay.com). >Sometimes, when cold starting it will crank and start the engine, but the >engine dies quickly, typically, less than 1 seconds.
the main relay not keeping the ecu and fuel pump on…. >Today, I noticed that >the speedometer was wildly going down and back up and the digital clock was >blanking out.
that’s baaad…the speedo wave means that voltage is splashing it’s way thru the ECU. the clock blanking means that you are losing IG1 (switched power) when cranking…..loose ground somewhere?? >Today’s events now make me believe it is an electrical problem. Quite >likely a corroded ground/live wire? Why would the starter work well though. >Are there more than 1 ground/live wires that I need to look out for?
The starter has it’s own big wires and the rest of the electrical system is pretty separate. Start with the ground wire off the 10mm bolt right next to the battery.
Response:
I would also put my money on the bad ground. Make sure that you have plenty of ground from battery to engine and battery to frame. It also couldn’t hurt to have a ground going from the frame to the engine/tranny. I’ve noticed some really strange things happen when there is inadequate grounding. I had a Buick Skyhawk that would randomly turn the windshield wipers on and off regardless of the position of the switch (a problem since I live in Washington) and it also couldn’t keep the radio on a single station. Turned out that the battery was grounded only with a ~12 guage wire. I pulled that out and replaced it with a real battery ground cable and all those problems were gone. Good luck! BBB – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 92 Accord with 260,000 kms on it has just started acting up last week. > Sometimes, when cold starting it will crank and start the engine, but the > engine dies quickly, typically, less than 1 seconds. Today, I noticed that > the speedometer was wildly going down and back up and the digital clock was > blanking out. > Today’s events now make me believe it is an electrical problem. Quite > likely a corroded ground/live wire? Why would the starter work well though. > Are there more than 1 ground/live wires that I need to look out for?
Response:
My 92 Accord with 260,000 kms on it has just started acting up last week. Sometimes, when cold starting it will crank and start the engine, but the engine dies quickly, typically, less than 1 seconds. Today, I noticed that the speedometer was wildly going down and back up and the digital clock was blanking out. Today’s events now make me believe it is an electrical problem. Quite likely a corroded ground/live wire? Why would the starter work well though. Are there more than 1 ground/live wires that I need to look out for?
Response:
This strange problem is not strange in accords. When ever the speed sensor fails the D4 bliks. But might not blink if the speedo is dead. The solution is to repair or replace the speed sensor on top of the tranny. Most speed sensor may be repaired. Open it up and see if you can strech this springs inside it a l ittle and save some bucks. Before you buy.
Response:
it indicates a problem
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I couldn’t find an Acura newsgroup, so I thought I would post this here. > 1994 Acura Legand L > 3.2 V6 > Auto > Problem: Bad speedo and mysterious blinking. > Okay, the speedo thing isn’t much of a mystery, but the square lamps that > surround the gear indicator in the dash have me puzzled. The D4 light > blinks, even when I am in another gear. I will be driving along, and > suddenly it starts blinking and doesn’t stop until I turn the car off…Does > this every time I drive it. Is it supposed to indicate a problem with the > tranny, or is it just screwed up? Please, someone help me out here. TIA > THANKS!
Response:
On some models with a sports program there is an S indicator on the dash that blinks if there is a problem. On others without the S indicator (like mine) the D4 indicator will flash (in any program) if the AT ECU has failed an internal diagnostic check. Drive slowly with no harsh accelleration until a dealer can check the system. I’ve noticed that sometimes if you don’t move the selector switch to the next position properly (sort of stuck between the detented positions) none of the indicators light up and the AT selects a curious ’safe mode’ program that doesn’t allow any harsh accelleration… Peter
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I couldn’t find an Acura newsgroup, so I thought I would post this here. > 1994 Acura Legand L > 3.2 V6 > Auto > Problem: Bad speedo and mysterious blinking. > Okay, the speedo thing isn’t much of a mystery, but the square lamps that > surround the gear indicator in the dash have me puzzled. The D4 light > blinks, even when I am in another gear. I will be driving along, and > suddenly it starts blinking and doesn’t stop until I turn the car off…Does > this every time I drive it. Is it supposed to indicate a problem with the > tranny, or is it just screwed up? Please, someone help me out here. TIA > THANKS!
Response:
Hi all, I couldn’t find an Acura newsgroup, so I thought I would post this here. 1994 Acura Legand L 3.2 V6 Auto Problem: Bad speedo and mysterious blinking. Okay, the speedo thing isn’t much of a mystery, but the square lamps that surround the gear indicator in the dash have me puzzled. The D4 light blinks, even when I am in another gear. I will be driving along, and suddenly it starts blinking and doesn’t stop until I turn the car off…Does this every time I drive it. Is it supposed to indicate a problem with the tranny, or is it just screwed up? Please, someone help me out here. TIA THANKS!
Response:
> If your Prelude is similar to my Accord, the switch that turns the > light on > when the door opens is right underneath the door latch. it’s sort > of a black > plastic sliding thing. make sure it’s not stuck in the "door > closed" > position. Mine did that for a while and needed some WD-40. If > that’s not it, > then maybe the switch has gone bad. > Good luck! > BBB
Okay I finally checked it today.. and you are right, the switch on the door seems to be ’stuck’.. when I move it with my fingers, the light DOES come on, and the "sensor" on the dash recognizes that the door is ajar, but the switch does it not want to "spring" back into its natural position.. I tried spraying WD-40 liberally all over it, and it still seems stuck.. I think the spring inside it could be worn out.. I also saw the phillips screw that Susan was referring to.. should I remove it and replace the spring (if indeed there is a spring in there)? Thanks in advance, James * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!
Response:
I doubt it. That just makes me think even more that it is that switch. It sounds more like it’s stuck in the closed position. Open the door and it’s right down there by where the door latches, but on the car, not on the door.
Response:
I agree with bob. I’m 120% sure it’s that switch. Yes, that’s an electrical problem. Thank god it’s not the Control unit problem, otherwise you won’t see none of the red lights in the dash. James, you have to go buy a screw driver take it off the door and soak it in really really hot boiling water, dry it and spray lubricant inside it. The hot water will get the dirt out, the spray will keep it from rusting. You gotta do it today. It seems you’d asked the same question twice, so I’m here to remind you.,,,so, now is a good time…&.. for god sake…take it out pa_l_e_a_s_e.. Susan > I doubt it. That just makes me think even more that it is that switch. It > sounds more like it’s stuck in the closed position. Open the door and it’s > right down there by where the door latches, but on the car, not on the door.
I just noticed that whenever I open the driver side door that on the dash, the red ’sensor’ light (which shows all ajar doors, trunk doors, etc..) for the door does not illuminate as it does on the right passenger side door. Could it be something else electrical?
Response:
If your Prelude is similar to my Accord, the switch that turns the light on when the door opens is right underneath the door latch. it’s sort of a black plastic sliding thing. make sure it’s not stuck in the "door closed" position. Mine did that for a while and needed some WD-40. If that’s not it, then maybe the switch has gone bad. Good luck! BBB
Response:
> > What does > it look like? > __ > from top looking down. It’s the size of pen cap located on the > door edge on > the trimming. The color is black. It has one screw holding it. When > unplugging the wire, don’t let it fall in. > Susan
I just noticed that whenever I open the driver side door that on the dash, the red ’sensor’ light (which shows all ajar doors, trunk doors, etc..) for the door does not illuminate as it does on the right passenger side door. Could it be something else electrical? * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!
Response:
Small little problem on my ‘88 Prelude S.. Whenever I open the passenger-side door, the cabin light illuminates, but whenever I open the driver-side door, it doesn’t.. I’m not a whiz (obviously) when it comes to the electrical, so any help to fix this annoyance would be appreciated. THANKS, James. * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!
Response:
Regarding cabin light [not activated by] driver-side door Steel the door switch from the passenger side and put it on the driver side, if it works then clean or adjust your the one originally from the driver side. If it doesn’t work then post back again. Susan
Response:
> What does
it look like? __ from top looking down. It’s the size of pen cap located on the door edge on the trimming. The color is black. It has one screw holding it. When unplugging the wire, don’t let it fall in. Susan
Response:
>Regarding cabin light [not activated by] driver-side door >Steel the door switch from the passenger side and put it on the driver >side, if it works then clean or adjust your the one originally from >the driver side. If it doesn’t work then post back again. >Susan
Where on the passenger side door, is this switch located? What does it look like? Can I just remove it like a clip? THANKS * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!
Response:
1) there was a voluntary recall for the distributor bearing on the 92 Accord…inspect your distributor. If the bearing is shot, the sensor assembly as well as the ignitor may be toast (both inside the distributor). Honda gave me a free distributor assembly on my 92 accord (tho it had not failed). 2) main relay may be shot. The main relay turns on the fuel pump and the ECU. It is a gray relay with a reddish base. It is underdash directly above the big silver cruise control module, to the left of the steering column. The main circuit board of the mr develops solder cracks. Touch up the solder connections or replace. 3) it’s also possible that your ignition switch is wearing out There are lots of grounds….you really need the factory service manual (about $55 from www.helminc.com …or less on www.ebay.com). >Sometimes, when cold starting it will crank and start the engine, but the >engine dies quickly, typically, less than 1 seconds.
the main relay not keeping the ecu and fuel pump on…. >Today, I noticed that >the speedometer was wildly going down and back up and the digital clock was >blanking out.
that’s baaad…the speedo wave means that voltage is splashing it’s way thru the ECU. the clock blanking means that you are losing IG1 (switched power) when cranking…..loose ground somewhere?? >Today’s events now make me believe it is an electrical problem. Quite >likely a corroded ground/live wire? Why would the starter work well though. >Are there more than 1 ground/live wires that I need to look out for?
The starter has it’s own big wires and the rest of the electrical system is pretty separate. Start with the ground wire off the 10mm bolt right next to the battery.
Response:
I would also put my money on the bad ground. Make sure that you have plenty of ground from battery to engine and battery to frame. It also couldn’t hurt to have a ground going from the frame to the engine/tranny. I’ve noticed some really strange things happen when there is inadequate grounding. I had a Buick Skyhawk that would randomly turn the windshield wipers on and off regardless of the position of the switch (a problem since I live in Washington) and it also couldn’t keep the radio on a single station. Turned out that the battery was grounded only with a ~12 guage wire. I pulled that out and replaced it with a real battery ground cable and all those problems were gone. Good luck! BBB – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 92 Accord with 260,000 kms on it has just started acting up last week. > Sometimes, when cold starting it will crank and start the engine, but the > engine dies quickly, typically, less than 1 seconds. Today, I noticed that > the speedometer was wildly going down and back up and the digital clock was > blanking out. > Today’s events now make me believe it is an electrical problem. Quite > likely a corroded ground/live wire? Why would the starter work well though. > Are there more than 1 ground/live wires that I need to look out for?
Response:
My 92 Accord with 260,000 kms on it has just started acting up last week. Sometimes, when cold starting it will crank and start the engine, but the engine dies quickly, typically, less than 1 seconds. Today, I noticed that the speedometer was wildly going down and back up and the digital clock was blanking out. Today’s events now make me believe it is an electrical problem. Quite likely a corroded ground/live wire? Why would the starter work well though. Are there more than 1 ground/live wires that I need to look out for?
Response:
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