'93 Mazda Navajo transfer case motor problem?
Question:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Going under the assumption that the Navajos are vertually identical to >the Explorers, I think I’ve diagnosed my transfer case motor as being >stuck (as seen at http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/tcase.html). >The symptoms appear to be standard: Press 4×4H button, hear an >immediate click, followed by a click about a second later, then >another click in about 3 seconds. The dash lights dim slightly >between the first and last clicks, so something is drawing current >during this time. The clicks originate from the rear-driver side in >the compartment housing the rear winder washer fluid reservoir and a >electrical switch/junction of some sort. >The vehicle is a 1993 model, which I bought in 1998. Somewhere >between 6 and 12 months later, the 4×4L stopped working. I shrugged >it off since I never used this gear. Then, about 12 months ago, the >4×4H started "sticking" on cold mornings. I’d need to press the >buttons repeatedly a few times before it would engage. It finally >stopped working altogether about 4 months ago. It has about 123k >miles on it. >If it matters, none of the indicator lights turn on when I press them. >I had a guy at Jiffy Lube gently tap the motor with a hammer a few >times (per the site I list above). No help. He said with the guard >in place, there weren’t many places he *could* tap it. >So, my first question: can I be fairly certain that my tcase actuator >is simply stuck or dirty (versus dead)? >I’m not keen on taking a wrench to my car (as if the Jiffy Lube >reference didn’t already clue everyone in), and I’d like to contract >the services a 17-year-old local gearhead (we’re friends with the >family). I’ve printed out the entire page I linked above to give him >as reference. My theory is that he can’t make it worse (it’s not a >critical system for me to use the vehicle for daily use), and he’ll >gain some extra money and experience if he *does* get it fixed. >(BTW, would $100 be fair to pay a kid to take care of this? I’d front >him $25 just for trying, plus the remainder upon fixing it. I’m >guessing local mechanics would bill me about $200 for the same thing. >This seems fair to me for uncertified service.) >Also, if the motor is toast (or just beyond his skill to clean and >re-align), could I try my luck at getting one from a salvage yard and >have him simply replace it? And how much is reasonable to pay a >salvage yard for such a part? I’d hate to get ripped off. What other >make/model/years of Navajos or Explorers use this motor? And as a >last resort, does anyone have the official Navajo part name and number >(or the Ford equivalent, if there is one) so I can price one out with >local suppliers? >Thanks for any advice.
Armed with the info from singleton’s site, and after you read thru all of it to familiarize yourself with all the tips, it’s a fairly simple straightforward job to pull the motor, pop the one wire out of the connector, take the motor into the garage and disassemble it and the internal switch, clean it all up, and put it all back together. The first and only time I did mine took less then 2 hours start to finish. You can buy aftermarket motors (and probably one from Ford too). CHeck www.fordpartsonline.com for the ford part price and any of the other internet sources or the local NAPA for other aftermarket prices. I’ve seen them for between 150 to 175 bucks new. I would not bother with one from a wrecking yard as it will probably have the same problem as the one you have, if not now, in six months from now. BUy a replacement is obviously the simplest route but repairing what you have is just as obviously cheaper if you don’t have to pay anyone. If the kid is willing to do the $25/100 job you might was well give it a try. If he fails you can always buy a replacement but if he’s any good he’ll be able to get it working. Make sure he understands the need to replace the busted up nylon bump stops he will find with something that fits as a replacement. I used very short pieces of rubber fuel line to put over the pins that hold the stops.
Response:
Going under the assumption that the Navajos are vertually identical to the Explorers, I think I’ve diagnosed my transfer case motor as being stuck (as seen at http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/tcase.html). The symptoms appear to be standard: Press 4×4H button, hear an immediate click, followed by a click about a second later, then another click in about 3 seconds. The dash lights dim slightly between the first and last clicks, so something is drawing current during this time. The clicks originate from the rear-driver side in the compartment housing the rear winder washer fluid reservoir and a electrical switch/junction of some sort. The vehicle is a 1993 model, which I bought in 1998. Somewhere between 6 and 12 months later, the 4×4L stopped working. I shrugged it off since I never used this gear. Then, about 12 months ago, the 4×4H started "sticking" on cold mornings. I’d need to press the buttons repeatedly a few times before it would engage. It finally stopped working altogether about 4 months ago. It has about 123k miles on it. If it matters, none of the indicator lights turn on when I press them. I had a guy at Jiffy Lube gently tap the motor with a hammer a few times (per the site I list above). No help. He said with the guard in place, there weren’t many places he *could* tap it. So, my first question: can I be fairly certain that my tcase actuator is simply stuck or dirty (versus dead)? I’m not keen on taking a wrench to my car (as if the Jiffy Lube reference didn’t already clue everyone in), and I’d like to contract the services a 17-year-old local gearhead (we’re friends with the family). I’ve printed out the entire page I linked above to give him as reference. My theory is that he can’t make it worse (it’s not a critical system for me to use the vehicle for daily use), and he’ll gain some extra money and experience if he *does* get it fixed. (BTW, would $100 be fair to pay a kid to take care of this? I’d front him $25 just for trying, plus the remainder upon fixing it. I’m guessing local mechanics would bill me about $200 for the same thing. This seems fair to me for uncertified service.) Also, if the motor is toast (or just beyond his skill to clean and re-align), could I try my luck at getting one from a salvage yard and have him simply replace it? And how much is reasonable to pay a salvage yard for such a part? I’d hate to get ripped off. What other make/model/years of Navajos or Explorers use this motor? And as a last resort, does anyone have the official Navajo part name and number (or the Ford equivalent, if there is one) so I can price one out with local suppliers? Thanks for any advice.
Response:
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